The old-timers who have eaten here their entire lives might know the difference, but they're not complaining, at least not too loudly. The prep-a Ti leaf wrap and plenty of Hawaiian sea salt-is traditional the hit of Kiawe smoke flavoring (Kiawe being Hawaii's answer to mesquite) and a trip to the oven is not. But at the Highway Inn, with two O'ahu locations, and around almost as long as Helena's, they do a great Kalua pig sandwich on slider rolls. Adherents to tradition, like Helena's Hawaiian Food in Honolulu, aren't the sort of place you rock up for a sandwich they're more into the plate lunch scene here (it's a great scene, get to know it). And why not? However you make it, it's going to taste pretty good, but when it comes to barbecued meat, you're never going to beat low and slow. Somewhere between the invention of liquid smoke and the rise of today's fast-paced lifestyle, Kalua pork-traditionally a whole hog affair, rubbed with local sea salt, wrapped in tropical plant leaves, and cooked in the ground-made the leap from luau labor of love to every pressure cooker in town.
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